Month: July 2017

For beginners looking into DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) cameras, the two big go-to names tend to be Nikon and Canon. However, there are some other brands that are well worth considering, including Pentax. In fact, the Pentax K-50 rounded out our picks for Best DSLR Cameras for Beginners thanks to its fantastic lineup of features.

Specs

Here are some of the key specs of the Pentax K-50:

 

 

 

• Weather resistant body
• Stabilized 16 MP CMOS sensor
• ISO up to 51200
• Continuous Shooting 6fps
• 100% Pentaprism viewfinder
• Eye-Fi Card Compatibility with Eye-Fi wireless SD cards
• Full 1080p h.264 HD video recording

Designed for Use

One of the flashiest features of the K-50 is the body design. While few newcomers to digital photography are buying their first DSLR for the look of it, the added options of white or red are kind of a nice addition to the sea of black cameras. But the K-50 isn’t just a pretty face – it’s weather resistant, dustproof, and designed with the outdoors in mind. It also offers comfortable grips and it’s lightweight, perfect for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Many users note the ease of use when it comes to the menu system. Any setting you might need is easy to find and quick to get to. This adds to the appeal for outdoorsy photographers who want to quickly update settings to capture nature’s fast-changing landscapes and wildlife.

Features & Function

For an entry level DSLR and given the price point, the K-50 has all the features and specs a beginner will need or want. The picture quality is consistently great, and the auto features enable newbies to capture great shots right out of the box. There’s plenty to learn with the K-50, but the menu system makes that easy.

The Pentax K-50 boasts nearly 6 frames per second in high-speed continuous mode (taking up to 30 JPEGs or 8 RAW shots in a burst). It also provides a max shutter speed of 1/6000 second and an 11-point (9 cross type) autofocus system with subject tracking. The SR mechanism does an excellent job of compensating for camera shake, and delivers consistently sharp images, even under the most typically shaky conditions.

Save Some $$…

The K-50 is no more, but that doesn’t mean you can’t grab it at an excellent price. The new and upgraded K-70 offers some appealing new perks over the K-50, but the price of the remaining K-50s just can’t be beaten. At that price (under $500), it’s worth every penny, even without the fancy offers of the K-70.

…Or Take the Upgrade

Though we don’t have a full report on the K-70 just yet, the word on the street is that it has some great updates. You will probably spend a few hundred bucks more, though.

Bottom Line: We recommend grabbing a Pentax K-50 while you can. You’ll save a ton of money off the original price (and from the price of the new K-70) and you’ll get some great features. Outdoorsy types will especially love the K-50’s design.

 

If you are looking for the next step up from your smartphone or point and shoot camera, it’s probably time to take a look at DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex).

DSLR cameras do take some time to figure out. However, they are very popular with a variety of people, including:

• Nature/Architecture Enthusiasts
• Bloggers
• Parents
• Travelers
• Retirees
• Hobbyists
• Film Makers
• Artisans and Makers

And much more!

Whether you are interested in photography as a hobby, want to make a living from it, or just want to take professional-looking pictures, a DSLR camera is a must-have.

DSLR cameras are complicated, though. There is an entirely new language to learn, and getting good pictures from a DSLR camera depends as much (if not more) on technical skill as it does on the camera you use. For that reason, you’ll see many experts explain that you don’t need to start with the most expensive camera out there. Entry-level cameras are not only affordable, they are also designed to help new shutterbugs learn how to shoot.

In this guide, we’ll take a look at DSLR cameras to help you understand what you’re getting yourself into and how you can approach the buying process.

What is DSLR?

DSLR cameras use digital formats (rather than film) and are superior over point and shoot digital cameras in both quality and options. DSLRs use built-in mirrors and interchangeable lenses, which makes them the best choice for anyone hoping to enhance their photography.

It’s the interchangeable lenses themselves that really set DSLR cameras apart. Our smartphones continue to provide us with expanded options in terms of quality, focus, and artistry. But DSLR cameras have numerous lens options so you can choose the lens that best fits your specific needs – beautiful portraits, far-off landscapes, wide-angle architecture, macro. Aside from artistic shots, different lenses will produce great results for things like product shots (for your website, blog, or Etsy shop), sports, and video clips.

When you change out your lenses, you also have several options within the camera itself. This is where the DSLR and camera terminology comes in. You’ll see options like ISO, AF, F, TV, Raw, and more. What do these even mean? Let’s talk about some of these features next.

What are the Features of a DSLR Camera?

There are a ton of features available on today’s DSLRs. When you start shopping around, you’ll see the specs of each camera. Without knowing what all those terms and numbers mean, it probably looks like a completely different language. In fact, it can feel a little isolating to read up on camera specifications because the language is so technical, and newbies have a hard time understanding the implications of any of the terms.

Here’s a crash course on a few of the most common terms you’ll see related to DSLR cameras.

Aperture

This term is an important one once you start shooting. Aperture is simply the size of the opening on the lens’s diaphragm, and it regulates light passage. When you adjust aperture on your camera, you’ll change the f/stop.

Aperture can get a little confusing because the lower numbers are actually wider openings (more exposure). So, for example, if f/1.4 is the lowest available aperture on your camera, it will give you the biggest opening in the lens, and, thus, the most light.

Aperture is related to another term you’ll hear a lot: depth of field. Depth of field is the sharpness or blurriness of the area around your subject. You’ll hear it as “greater” or “less” depth of field. This helps add to the confusion of f/stops and aperture (we promise you’ll get the hang of it eventually). Here’s essentially what it means:

• Low f/stop – less depth of field – blurrier background
• High f/stop – greater depth of field – sharper background

The nice thing about learning aperture and depth of field is that it’s an easy setting to play with. There are also many articles online that explain the differences in depth of field and provide example pictures with various f/stop settings.

When you buy a DSLR camera, aperture isn’t something you’ll worry about in the specs. Having a wider range of f/stops comes from additional lenses that you might buy later on.

Focus

When it comes to “focus” in DSLR, we’re usually talking about the camera’s autofocus (AF). Some (though not many) entry-level cameras don’t have a manual focus, though, and we recommend avoiding those. Manual focus isn’t necessarily something you’ll use every single time you shoot, but it’s nice to have and gives you control over the subject in focus whenever you need it.

Autofocus is a pretty crucial part of your photography, so it’s worth it to check on the camera’s autofocus ability. In specs and reviews of cameras, pros talk about the “sensors” that function in AF. The speed and accuracy of AF are the most important parts of the function, and have added importance if you intend to rely on AF frequently (especially for action shots, wildlife shooting, sports, kids playing – you get the idea). While autofocus depends heavily on the subject, particularly the light level and contrast, but you should still be able to figure out whether the camera’s AF is good or lacking.

You can absolutely read up on the AF reviews and specs of the camera you are considering, but if you have the means to play around with the device before you buy, that’s even better. You can test to see for yourself if the autofocus tends to operate quickly or lag, and whether it seems to focus on the subject correctly or not.

Not having a good AF can make for an extremely frustrating photography experience, so it’s well worth it to do a little homework. You’ll see that “good” AF is typically based on the number autofocus points, but you’ll spend quite a bit more for cameras with lots of points, so don’t base your entire decision on that.

ISO

Like aperture, ISO is connected to the light. The difference is ISO decides how sensitive the image sensor is to light. In ISO, the lower the number, the lower the sensitivity. This makes it a bit less confusing than aperture! An ISO of 100 will always be the lowest available option on your camera and is generally a good setting for bright light, daytime, and so forth. Choosing higher ISO settings tends to mean more noise (graininess and discoloration) in the shots.

ISO ranges vary from camera to camera, but it’s another good area to check out before you buy. Nearly any camera you’re considering should have some info online with pictures taken at different ISOs. A camera that produces noisy images at a relatively low ISOs might not be a good investment. If you know you will be shooting frequently in low light, it might be worth spending a bit more to get a camera that is rated well for higher ISOs.

ISO settings are organically tied to shutter speed and aperture, too, so it does take a bit of time to figure out ISO settings. Using manual ISO isn’t a bad idea at all – it gives you a chance to learn some of the other settings before worrying about this one (which can be tricky).

Megapixels

Megapixels get a lot of attention when it comes to assessing the quality of a DSLR. Megapixels relate to resolution and are simply a unit of measurement for the number of pixels. However, megapixels also relate to file size, and more megapixels create larger digital files. This means you’ll need more memory for more prints, and it also means it’s more time consuming to send or upload photos.

Resolution matters, of course, but for the most part, entry-level cameras will have a fairly standard range. Even getting into mid-level cameras you’ll see most of the big names and lists of “best” cameras will be pretty close. Add that to the fact that more isn’t always better when it comes to megapixels, and you’ll find that it all is pretty confusing.

When choosing a DSLR camera, you will want to take megapixels into account, but that isn’t the be-all, end-all of camera buying. In fact, the sensor tends to be more important (more on that later). Manufacturers like to tout high megapixel counts, and in some cases, it may give them a competitive edge. But when we’re talking about new DSLR users, this shouldn’t factor much into your decision. Higher megapixels often mean higher price points, and for your first camera, there are other features that should influence your decision much more.

Metering

Metering is yet another term that relates to – you guessed it – light. What you need to know about it at this stage is just this: it helps guide exposure, and you can change the way the camera reads the light. Matrix metering reads the light from the whole shot. Center-weighted measures the middle of the frame only. Spot metering is simply reading the light based on your focus.

Metering is actually a relatively simple setting to figure out, but it’s also something you don’t have to worry about too much to start with. It’s also standard, so it’s not a feature to concern yourself with when you’re shopping for your new camera.

Modes

When you first start shooting, you’ll probably find yourself relying on the camera’s ability to sense settings. This means you should start out in Auto mode. Your camera’s auto mode will set everything up for you: ISO, f/stop, shutter speed, etc. This enables you to take the camera right out of the box and start using it.

If you’ve spent any time around photographers in person or online, you might already have a kneejerk reaction to AUTO MODE. If that’s the case: STOP IT. There’s nothing wrong with shooting in Auto mode, especially when you’re learning! Your DSLR is smart, and it can configure all the settings for you so you can work on capturing the shot, or playing around with manual focus. Plus, your camera will record all the settings it uses for every shot, so you can get to know what you like and which to use when moving to manual or semi-manual.

There will probably come a time when you do want to make your own choices regarding aperture or ISO. One way to start figuring out what sorts of settings you prefer is to try out the camera’s semi-automatic modes. For example:

• Aperture Priority (A or AV): You control the depth of field and the camera will figure out the rest
• Shutter Priority (S or TV): Great for action shots or long exposure, set the shutter speed and let your camera handle the other settings
• Other: This might be portrait, macro, landscape, sports, etc. These have presets for things like aperture or shutter speed, and will try to give you the best possible shot for that scene

Sensors

Sensors matter when buying a DSLR, at least to some. As we mentioned, megapixels don’t always matter quite as much as many would have you think. Sensors, on the other hand, can make a big difference in quality based on the sensor size.

You might notice some different types of sensors when considering DSLRs, like CCD and CMOS. There are new trends in digital photography that can affect the quality of the sensor, but for now what really matters is size.

The sensor size listing may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but overall, the bigger the sensor, the better (you can decide how to interpret size). This is another category that deserves a bit more research when you start narrowing your choices. If you’re on a budget, a slight size difference in sensor may not matter quite as much as some of the other features. No matter what, just keep in mind that sensor size and megapixels should be assessed together.

Shutter Speed

The f/stop affects shutter speed in a big way. Shutter speed impacts the amount of light that comes in, so it’s a setting you’ll need to get to know when you move to manual settings. Like aperture, it can sometimes be confusing:

• Low f/stop – more light – faster shutter speed (less light needed)
• High f/stop – less light – slower shutter speed (to allow for more light)

You might play with shutter speed using Shutter Priority mode and notice which settings the camera defaults to in order to catch your shot. This can help you get to know the delicate balance of ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

Which Brand Should I Get?

Oftentimes, when people have made the decision to purchase a DSLR, they want to know exactly which one to get. There are two major brands that make up the majority of DSLR business – Nikon and Canon. You’ll find die-hard fans on both sides, and there’s no shortage of convincing arguments for either brand. They aren’t the only brands, however – Pentax and Sigma also have DSLR offerings.

Photographers tend to become fiercely loyal to their preferred brand, so asking around or doing some internet research will help you find some passionate views about particular brands and models.

Okay, So, Which Camera Should I Buy?

Here’s the thing: there’s no one PERFECT camera. There’s probably going to be a perfect camera for you, but to figure that out, you’ll want to do some research.

Get as specific as you can while asking these kind of questions:

• How much do I actually expect to use this camera?
• What will I primarily use it to shoot?
• Will I use it for action, portraits, low light, astronomy, etc.?
• What is my budget?
• How much of that do I want to use on add-ons, accessories, lenses, etc.?

From there, you should be able to narrow down some specifics – your price range, for example, will help you identify a selection pretty quickly. If you want to spend less on the body and use some of your budget to get lenses or other extras, that will limit you a bit. If particular features really matter (say, frames per second or video recording), that can help you further narrow your scope.

Definitely read lots of viewpoints about “best” cameras. You’ll see that there’s often plenty of agreement about which cameras are worth the money. You’ll also find people making strong cases for or against those same models.

Above all, choose the camera that speaks to you and seems to fit all your criteria. Don’t worry about brand names or specs you don’t really need. Plus, nearly any DSLR camera you get will be such a big improvement from your smartphone or point and shoot that you’ll have plenty to be excited about.

Do I Need Extras?

As we mentioned above, you might feel inclined to set some of your budget aside for add-ons, extras, gear, and so forth. Before you buy anything, keep in mind that you’ll always want more gear. We’ve yet to meet a photographer who doesn’t want some new lens or flash or other gear. And, gear is just a tool. To take great pictures, you have to learn how to shoot DSLR first and foremost – the fanciest gear isn’t going to do much if you don’t know how to use it.

A few things you might want to buy initially:

• Camera bag
• Neck strap
• Tripod
• Extra battery
• Extra memory cards
• Cleaning accessories
• An extra lens (we like a 50 mm f/1.8 for both quality and affordability)

How Can I Learn to Shoot DSLR?

Now you just need to learn to use the darn thing.

First, don’t be scared of it. Simply taking the camera out and using it to shoot as many bad photos as possible helps you get to know your camera. Plus, there’s always a good chance you’ll accidentally get some great shots.

Next, keep shooting! Use it all the time. Try new settings and modes. Read online articles about using your particular camera. Learning to shoot DSLR takes time, so don’t be discouraged if you’re still using auto settings several months in. There’s no shame in that!

If reading isn’t working as well for you, check out some YouTube videos, enroll in an online workshop or class, or check out photography classes at your local university or community college. There are many ways to learn how to use your DSLR camera.

Above all, have fun with you new camera!

 

When we ranked DSLR Cameras, the flagship Nikon D5 was on the top of the list, and for good reason. Take a peek at any website or customer review and you’ll see consistently high marks from photographers who can’t stop raving about the D5.

While the hefty price tag for the Nikon D5 makes it out of reach for many photographers, those with the budget to buy it will get some of the most advanced technology available. The D5 is the top-of-the-line choice for sports and portraits, and with excellent autofocus and high ISO, the D5 is sure to deliver each and every time.

Specs

Here are the top specs of the Nikon D5

• 8MP FX-Format CMOS Sensor
• EXPEED 5 Image Processor
• Native ISO range 100 to 102,400
• Redesigned AF (153 points, 99 cross-type sensors and a dedicated processor)
• 2″ 2.36m-Dot Touchscreen LCD Monitor
• 4K UHD Video Recording
• Multi-CAM 20K 153-Point AF System
• 12 fps Shooting for 200 Shots with AE/AF
• 180k-Pixel RGB Sensor and Group Area AF

Shooter-Friendly Design

The D5 is bulky and heavy – weighing in at 3.1 pounds – but that’s necessary due to the design and built in battery grip. It’s a breeze to shoot in either landscape or portrait mode, and it’s super comfortable to hold. The D5 was obviously designed for the right target customer, as it offers incredible customization features, and the button placement (once you get the hang of it) enables you to keep shooting without having to stop and make adjustments.

Some new design features work well, but may require a bit of adjustment for experienced Nikon shooters. The new touchscreen, a first for Nikon, works well but takes a bit of getting used to. The biggest change Nikon users will encounter is the change in some button placement. This might take time to appreciate, but the overall design is smart – once you get used to it.

Beautiful Shots

The new autofocus is hard to pass up – it’s just that good. It offers an astounding 153 points.  The D5 produces great shots at all kinds of low light situations, too. For photographers who rely mainly on natural light, the D5 will not disappoint. Basically, you have to try really hard to get a bad shot out of the Nikon D5.

The native ISO range goes up to 102,400 and the high ISO performance will leave you astounded at the quality of your shots. However, shooting at the expanded ISO (up to 3,280,000) does not produce clean shots, so this “perk” of the D5 might not actually be beneficial to most photographers.

Fast Performance

When it comes to talking about the overall performance of the Nikon D5, all we can say is “fast.” It is fast, period. The shutter speed and continuous shooting options are obviously designed (much like the interface and button placement) for the kind of shooter who is most likely to shell out the money for the D5 – photographers who shoot sporting events, weddings, and so forth, and who need the kind of speed the D5 offers. You’ll likely get way more shots than you actually need in any given session, but add in the fantastic battery life, and there really isn’t much to complain about here.

Bottom Line: The Nikon D5 is absolutely incredible and well worth the high sticker price. Of course, that sticker price is what will limit the number of photographers who can buy Nikon’s flagship camera, but for those who can – it’s worth every penny.

 

On August 21, 2017, the United States will experience a solar eclipse, with 14 states experiencing a total eclipse. Many experts predict that millions will be traveling to the path of totality to get a glimpse of this historic event.

If you are one of the lucky ones traveling to or already in the path of totality, you might be wondering how to capture this celestial event with your DSLR camera. Let’s talk about how to safely photograph the solar eclipse.

First Things First: Safety Must-Haves

Eye Protection

Before you do anything else, make sure you pick up solar eclipse glasses. You can find these around town through libraries, schools, or museums, or you can find them online.

Eclipse glasses are absolutely essential for viewing the solar eclipse and need to be worn at all times while viewing the eclipse, with the exception of the few minutes of totality. Do not look at the sun or through your viewfinder without your glasses on!

Equipment Protection

Your eyes aren’t the only things that risk damage by the sun during an eclipse. Your camera needs protection, too. Grab a solar filter for your camera well before the day of the eclipse. There are a few options for this:

• Find a solar filter designed for your specific camera model
• Buy a universal lens filter (double check which aperture it fits)
• DIY with solar filter sheets

Don’t use your eclipse glasses for this – invest in a solar filter to protect your camera.

Basics You’ll Need for the Show

Once you have all the safety stuff taken care of, you can start putting together what equipment you’ll need in order to photograph the eclipse. Here is a list of the minimum number of things you’ll want to have ready to go:

• Tripod
• Batteries (and extras)
• LOTS of memory
• The right lens (more on that in a minute)

Getting good photos of an eclipse requires taking many photos during the eclipse. You will definitely want to have lots of storage space (bring an empty SD card, for example) and plenty of fresh batteries. Totality is the neatest part of the eclipse, and you’ll want to have plenty of space and battery to capture those few minutes. What we’re saying here is, don’t waste space and battery life on the partial eclipse if you don’t have time, space, or extra batteries for the total eclipse.

Preparation is Key

If you’re serious about capturing good photos during the eclipse, it pays to prepare.

Educate Yourself

Understanding what happens during the eclipse, when it’s going to happen where you are, and what to expect from the experience will help you handle the setup and photographing when the even starts. It’s definitely worth the time to check out others’ pictures of past eclipses, and to read professionals’ tips on how to shoot an eclipse.

Practice

Many pros recommend practicing your shots by photographing the moon. The full moon is best, since it appears to be about the same size as the sun. August’s full moon is early in the month, so start practicing soon!

You also can practice preparing for totality. Your solar filter should stay on the camera until totality begins, but you’ll want to pull that filter off to capture the total eclipse. (And then you’ll want to put the filter right back on.) You’ll be surprised by your reaction to the total eclipse, so practice and find the best method for removing and replacing the solar filter.

Prepare for Everything

It’s a good idea to run through possible issues, and not just from a photographer’s standpoint. For example, considering the weather and planning for heat, clouds, rain, or wind can help you ensure you have a good eclipse experience no matter what. If it’s going to be hot, bring lots of water, but also pack protection for your equipment. If there’s a chance of gusty winds, make sure your tripod will stay standing. You get the idea.

How to Capture the Eclipse

Fortunately, there are plenty of comprehensive articles online (and even in books at the library) that cover photographing a total solar eclipse. We recommend searching for articles that cover your specific brand and model. There are specific steps and settings for each phase of the eclipse; the most impressive phase and most coveted shots comes during totality, of course. Therefore, we recommend finding the best settings for this phase and waiting to shoot until then, or be ready to quickly adjust to capture this short but magnificent event.

You will need to pay particular attention to your lens, though. If you are new to photography, you may not yet have a lens that will work for the solar eclipse. Renting lenses is a great option if you don’t have a telephoto lens.

Again, do a little research to determine which lens will work best for the shots you want. For example, for full-frame cameras you can use lenses from 400mm-1000mm. But during totality, if you want to capture the sun and the corona, 500mm-800mm is best.

 

Shooting the eclipse will be a lot of work, but you’re sure to capture some amazing shots. Don’t wait until the last minute to prepare for this event if you do intend to photograph – spending time before hand learning and preparing will make the event that much more amazing.

Remember to keep your eyes and your equipment safe during the eclipse! Get ahold of your eclipse viewing glasses and your solar filters as soon as possible – these are necessities and are in high demand.

Our best piece of advice, though, is to enjoy the eclipse, and not worry too much about photographing. Be sure to take a moment to be present and enjoy this once in a lifetime celestial event.

 

 

Unless you’ve been living under a rock the past few months, you’re probably aware of a major event coming up on August 21st: the 2017 total solar eclipse.

This year’s solar eclipse will be one for the record books. If all the predictions are true, towns small and large that fall in the path of totality will be packed and roads will be a nightmare. It is estimated that this will be the most viewed solar eclipse in history.

Be Prepared

If you’ll be traveling

Planning ahead for this event is crucial. While everyone in the continental United States will have a view of the eclipse, only those in the path of totality will get to experience the full eclipse. This means a few things:

 

• Communities in the path of totality are anticipating huge crowds
• Most lodging options are already overbooked
• Many communities are planning viewing parties
• Cities close to (but not in) the path of totality anticipate high traffic

Essentially, patience is absolutely crucial for this, as is preparedness. If you haven’t already made travel plans, you’ll need to get a little creative and start planning right now.

This site has a comprehensive overview of each state that falls in the path of totality. You’ll see that each state’s page includes communities in the path. While it’s pretty much guaranteed that all lodging is either completely booked or outrageously expensive, there are some other options to consider.

Many of the states in the path of totality have some remote areas where viewing will be outstanding. Consider planning a hike or a camping trip to one of the regions least likely to be full. Or, if you can make it into a day trip, leave early and drive to a viewing area. Keep in mind, however, that there’s simply no way to know exactly how busy any area will be. And if the high end of estimates is correct, millions of people will be traveling to areas in the path of totality.

Even if you are well-prepared, have all your arrangements confirmed, and have taken the time off work already, you’ll still want to have a backup plan in place. Again, there’s no way to know for sure just how many people will be traveling, but it’s safe to say there’s a good chance traffic will be awful and travel plans will be delayed. Prepare for the worst case scenario now to avoid missing out on the eclipse due to unforeseen snags.

If you’ll be staying put

Travel isn’t essential in order to enjoy the 2017 solar eclipse. You might be lucky enough to be in the path of totality (or very close to it), or you could just decide not to mess with the chaos of travel and just stay where you are. You’ll still get to see a partial solar eclipse, which is still a neat experience.

No matter what you’re doing on August 21, you absolutely must have equipment in order to view the eclipse.

Have the Right Equipment

Eclipse Glasses

The first and most important piece of equipment you’ll need is solar eclipse glasses. You can find these online, but many libraries and community centers are giving them away, too. Pick them up soon – they are likely to become a hot commodity in the weeks leading up to the eclipse.

It’s essential that you have eclipse glasses to view the eclipse. Those in the path of totality can remove their glasses only during totality. The rest of the time, glasses must be worn in order to avoid damaging your eyes. If you’re not in the path of totality, be sure to keep your glasses on the entire time.

Binoculars

While you don’t need additional equipment beyond eclipse glasses to see the solar eclipse, extras can enhance the experience for you. Binoculars are a great way to look at the beautiful solar corona (the aura around the sun, visible during totality). There are binoculars specifically designed for eclipse viewing, but using traditional binoculars works just fine as long as you add a filter.

As we’ll explain, all your equipment needs to be equipped with a solar filter to avoid damage. If you only look up during totality, you can get by without the filter, otherwise be sure to find a filter. There are sheets that let you create your own, or you can try universal lens filters.

Telescopes

Using a telescope during the total eclipse can be a cool experience. You can use either binoculars or a telescope to create a projection (a fun activity with kids). But you also can use a telescope during totality to get a look at the solar corona and at the skies around you.

If you do not have a telescope already equipped for solar viewing, you must fit it with a solar filter in order to avoid damaging it. Solar filters for telescopes are more specific than what we mentioned above for binoculars, so you can find the right filter for your aperture. This one, for example, fits 66-94 mm aperture telescopes.

Safety First!

No matter where you plan to enjoy the eclipse or what (if any) additional equipment you’re using to make the most of this historic event, prioritize safety. There is plenty of good information available online and at libraries, schools, museums, and other locations in your community. Knowing how to view the eclipse safely is the most important part of the day. Be sure to have your eclipse glasses, and DO NOT take them off until totality occurs – this means that if you’re not in the path of totality, your eclipse glasses MUST stay on!

If you’re using equipment, take care to ensure no one uses it incorrectly – eclipse glasses should stay on even while looking through the lens. Also, watch for other potentially damaging concerns – magnification of the sun through a lens can start a fire, for example.

Plan ahead, stay safe, and enjoy the 2017 full solar eclipse!